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Mary Jane Mucklestone

Hand Knitting Blog & Knitting Patterns

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Fair Isle Weekend

September 28, 2020 by Mary Jane 3 Comments

Sheep stand in front of majestic Sheep Rock

My new book Fair Isle Weekend is available for preorder from the Laine Magazine Shop beginning Monday September 28, 2020.

I’m thrilled it’s finally happening! The book will be released November 6th in English and in Finnish. You can order it to be shipped from Finland, or ask for it at your local yarn shop.

The idea blossomed on my first visit to the isle when I decided I needed to bring more appropriate gear, and realized that Fair Isle knitted garments really are the most practical. When flying in the small 8 seater propeller plane, baggage is limited by weight, so you can’t bring much! Fair Isle garments are both lightweight and warm, not to mention beautiful!

I designed a small collection suitable for beginners and old hands alike. I hope to have honored the traditions of Fair Isle’s knitting while retaining my own unique style!

Ella wears a Fair Isle Watch Cap while Vivian sports a cowl. They sit on a high bank overlooking the Atlantic Ocean

So come traveling with me to Fair Isle! I’ll show you around with my visitors perspective! Fair Isle lass, artist Vivian Ross-Smith and her best friend designer Ella Gordon are our models, photographer Jeni Reid is behind the lens and there’s a few more of us unseen in the background, so you’ll fit right in!

Additional photography was done in Maine by Greta Rybus and Jonna Hietala in Finland.

Stay tuned to my instagram feed, where I’ll continue to show sneak peaks and behind the scene shots! I’m @mjmucklestone

Huge thanks go to the folk who live on Fair Isle, who have always been kind and welcoming, and Laine Publishing for making it happen.

Sheep stand in front of majestic Sheep Rock
Sheep and Sheep Rock, Fair Isle, Shetland, Scotland

Filed Under: Knitting

Cushing Cowl

February 20, 2020 by Mary Jane 1 Comment

I love a cowl. Cozy and warm! And they won’t blow off or strangle you in the wind, but rather stay put and do their job.

Say hello to Cushing Cowl, inspired by the diagonal knitting of Maine fiber artist Katharine Cobey. I was scheduled to teach my Contemporary Stranded Knitting class at the Farnsworth Museum in Rockland Maine, who are having an exhibit of Katharine’s work. Wanting to add a little of her influence, I got to wondering how to apply her ideas about diagonals to stranded colorwork. I went a bit wild in the process, making zigzags, arrows, chevrons and diamonds that all stemmed from one little pattern repeat.

I began by playing around with diagonal lines, and settled on a 6 stitch x 6 row, diagonal pattern – 3 stitches of each color marching to the left. I flipped the motif horizontally to see what would happen. I discovered that if I added another column of stitches, I could make an arrow shape (above right) I’ve outlined the original 6×6 pattern in red so you can see. Next I flipped that whole new bit down, and added a row to make a diamond shape! That’s how it starts. The possibilities are endless!

I wanted a graphic look for my cowl, so I dove into my stash and came out with two skeins of local Maine based, Quince & Co. Lark, worsted weight yarn in Pea Coat, a nice dark navy for the Main Color. I wanted to pair it with an off-white. I didn’t have a full skein of anything, but found a couple of partial white balls, Audouin, sort of an oatmeal color, and a little ball of Egret, a bright white.

Necessity is the mother of invention, I used them both! Plus, I think having the two slightly different whites are what really make these solid colors work so nicely. The effect is very subtle, but so much more lively than if I had just used one contrast color.

MJM iat the town landing in Falmouth Maine, wearing Cushing Cowl and Dash Happy Hat

I’ve been wearing my version ever since! Here I’m at the end of the dock in Falmouth Maine, at the town landing.

Olivia, my wonderful intern for the last few weeks, willingly took on making a second sample. She choose Lark in River, a medium blue color and a wonderful variegated yellow called Salty Dog, in Dream State, by Spincycle Yarns out of Bellingham, Washington.

We were both delighted with the resulting cowl, the colorplay of the Spincycle yarn is effortlessly beautiful! Olivia herself is extra extra, agreeing with only a tiny hesitation to being my supermodel at the drop of a hat, twice!

I can not thank her enough, she’s the best!

Estimated Worsted Weight Yarn Amounts

  • Version 1 MC 165yd [150m],  CC1 60yd [55m],  CC2 30yd [28m]
  • Version 2 MC 165yd [150m],  CC  90yd [83m]

Cushing Cowl

20% off with code: 2020

through midnight

Sunday February 21, 2020

on Ravelry

My thanks to you!

Further Reading: Diagonal Knitting: A Different Slant, by Katharine Cobey


I LOVE seeing your MJM WIPs and FOs! Please tag me so I don’t miss them! @mjmucklestone #maryjanemucklestone

Filed Under: Knitting Tagged With: Classes, color, colorwork, colour, colourwork, cowl, design, handknitting, inspiration, knitting pattern, Maine, quick knit, quince&co, ravelry, spincycle yarn, stranded knitting, winter accessories, wool, yarn

Oorik Swatching

February 2, 2018 by Mary Jane Leave a Comment

Oorik_swatch Oorik_yarns

I’m impulsive. I started my new Oorik for the KAL with ribbing from a WIP that had languished. Just the right number of stitches, a gorgeous Moss Heath green from Uradale Yarn, a 100% organic Shetland wool. Since I only have a few colors, the challenge is to make them work in a pleasing manner.

OorikColors

OorikValue

I didn’t think I’d be able to just swap color for color to good effect. In the original there isn’t as much of a difference between darks and lights as my new group of colors. Three of my new colors are in the middle-dark range, with a big leap to the white. In the black and white image the red appears super dark, but we know by our eyes that it won’t just read as a neutral dark, it will pack a punch if knit in any great amount, just a single row of pattern stitches in the first border pattern illustrates this.

Oorik_border - 1

That first border pattern is what I love. It’s exactly what I was looking for. The little bursts of red in the center cheer me to no end. I like the zigzag peerie pattern with green as the background too.

What comes next? I didn’t want to think. I was LAZY. My only thought…I need an instagram post! STUPID. Well actually the knitting was fun. Mindless zipping away…I knew the second border pattern wouldn’t work, but I thought maybe I’d surprise myself. Um…no.

Oorik - crop

I think the red “cuts” the pattern, creating a red line, in large part because there are so many pattern stitches in that round. I also believe the lacy curves of the pattern don’t show up because they are only one stitch and they get lost. See the difference two stitches of the same color side by side makes in the first border pattern?

I also really dislike the wide white stripes between the border patterns and the peerie pattern, they become an annoying “feature” that does not occur in the original colorway.

So what have I learned? What do I teach my students? SWATCH FOR COLOR. You can wear your swatch as a wristlet! I could keep this swatch as a hat. It does not offend me that much…we’ll see…I’ve got the urge to rip. Ripping back can be cathartic.

I will indeed swatch on 48 stitches and go from there. Stay tuned!

Links

Oorik Pattern

From the book A Year of Techniques

Join the Oorik KAL

Steeking Tutorial on Mason Dixon Knitting

jen_ac_bath_101 jen_ac_bath_162 jen_ac_bath_141

Filed Under: Books, Knitting

Oorik KAL Happening!

January 31, 2018 by Mary Jane Leave a Comment

Oorik_MaryJaneMucklestone_header
A Knit Along for Oorki, my child’s vest pattern, or what they call a tank top across the pond. The KAL begins tomorrow February 1st 2018. It’s the final installment from the book A Year of Techniques, by Jen and Jim Arnall-Culliford. Oorik challenges the knitter with colorwork and … the most difficult technique of all: STEEKING!! It really isn’t the most difficult, but it may be the scariest if you’ve never done it before. DON’T WORRY ABOUT IT. Just start knitting. You will be guided through the process in the KAL. Watch Jen’s comforting video hosted on Mason Dixon Knitting’s super website.

Look at my last post for a whole slew of super-cute pictures of Oorik and the darling spirited model!

I think a vest is a perfect place to start because you don’t have much at stake, especially when making a child’s vest. I have a Craftsy Class: The Fair Isle Vest where we make an adult sized vest, using DK weight Shetland Wool, so the project is still quick. My Voe Vest is another quick adult option as it also uses DK. I’ve got a Voe Vest WIP using Rowan Felted Tweed.

In any event the first step is to SWATCH for color and gauge.

OorikColorways

Here’s a great trick when you just want to swap out a color or two, wrap the possibilities on a card, or a clothespin which for some reason is another favorite thing to wrap. Or a ruler, I use rulers too.

The middle card above is the original colorway, with a different blue swapped out in the top card and a more somber group of colors on the bottom card, for those who eschew sweet colors for kids.

Arnall-Culifford Knitwear offer kits in these three colorways.

Oorik_OriginalOorik_NewBlueOorik_Muted
 Original (left), Different Blue (middle), Muted (right)

I am going to just use colors I’ve got in my stash. Which is about a thousand colors. You don’t even want to know. Just ask Ella at The Woolbrokers…To make my choices easier I’m using ribbing from a Bousta Beanie WIP, so I’m swatching with Uradale Yarns 100% Organic Shetland wool.

UradaleOorik - 1
 Uradale Yarns 100% Organic Shetland Wool

It’s just the right amount of stitches for a generous and in my mind perfect swatch or if I like it, I  can keep going and have a vest before you know it. We’ll see. I’ve only got a few colors so I’m determined to make them work to my liking. I may not just swap color for color…I will probably rearrange them a little.

OK!!!! That’s it! Ready Steady GO…tomorrow. After the super eclipse blood blue Moon.

Yarn Info:

Kit colors used above, all Jamieson & Smith :

Original

2ply Jumper Weight 9144 (pink), 66 (yellow), FC15 mix (blue)
Shetland Supreme Jumper Weight 2006 Gaulmogot (2006)

Turquoise

2ply Jumper Weight 9144 (pink), 66 (yellow), FC34 mix (turquoise)
Shetland Supreme Jumper Weight 2006 Gaulmogot (2006)

Grey background / Green peerie

2ply Jumper Weight FC15 mix (blue), 28 (dark yellow), 29 mix (green), 203 (grey)

 

Uradale Yarns 100% Organic Shetland Wool (the yarns I’m using)

Moss Heath (green)

Laebraakk (grey)

Flukkra (white)

Deergrass Heath (red)

 

Filed Under: Knitting

Nash Island Sheep Shearing

May 18, 2017 by Mary Jane 23 Comments

Nash is an island in Maine inhabited only by sheep. Sheep and gulls. Once upon a time, a hundred years ago, a family lived in a lighthouse on the next tiny island, and the lighthouse keeper’s daughter Jenny, kept a flock of sheep. The descendants of these sheep still live on these islands, all by themselves, with the gulls. The islands lie in the middle of the blue of the sea and the blue of the sky. They are nearly flat, with no trees, only brambles, short grasse and bog. Stony grey beach surrounds them, strewn with seaweed and bleached driftwood.
It’s a magical place.

Every year, this community of sheep is invaded by another community. A small flotilla of lobster boats arrive with a lively crew of humans set for shearing the flock’s lovely fog washed fleece. They’ve been doing it for years, the same group of people, family, old friends, a smattering of new friends. As people wade ashore, unloading the boats by passing needed supplies hand to hand, the sheep take one look and head for the far side of the island – having none of it.

Coffee and breakfast breads lure the folk together so Alfie Wakeman can explain the drill. As a child he summered nearby and became close friends with Jenny Cirone, the shepherdess. She taught him how to lobster fish and they fished and tended her sheep together until she died at 91.  Jenny gave the islands and sheep over to Alfie and he and his family have been the stewards ever since, doing things the way Jenny always did them.

Rounding up the sheep is done without dogs, only people. Alfie explains the time tested strategy. A couple of runners, head out to circle the edge of the island, herding the sheep along the coast, while separate teams of people hide in clumps in the bog and field, trying their best to look like rocks.

As the sheep pass them, these teams stand up and stretch their arms wide to discourage the sheep from retreating or heading inland. As more groups stand up, all move forward in wide-armed paper doll lines, encouraging the sheep into the weathered pens by the shore.

Now the real work begins. Separating the lambs from their mothers, “lamb tossing” is a lively and challenging operation. Fearless teenagers grab lambs from amidst the mass of wooly baaing ewes and hand them over the fence where they are passed off to someone else who carries the flailing lamb – all pink ears and sharp little hooves – over to another person situated in the lamb pen.

Here they are checked and administered to and set free. The mothers are not happy with this situation. Their crying and calling out to their babies will continue all day.

The shearing itself is spectacular. Four amazing women on the mats, shears sharpened. Donna Kausen and Geri Valentine have each been shearing for 35+ years, while Eleni, Alfie’s wife has been at it for 8 and 2016 was their eldest daughter Wren’s second. Their strength, stamina and precision is astounding.The sheep are wrangled one by one out of the pens and onto the mats, grabbed by the shearer and together with the wrangler put on their rumps, and clamped between the shearers legs.

Alongside the shearer is the specialized job of “shit picking,” getting the worst of the soiled fleece away from the good parts. Shit-pickers must be nimble, act quickly and not get in the way of the shearers or wranglers. In between shearing the sweeper keeps the mats clean with a quick pass of the broom.

The newly shorn fleeces are handed over to Jani Estell, island wool manager and owner of Starcroft Fiber Mill, a gem – my hero – with a sly smile, sparkly eyes and dry wit, who never seems to hurry yet keeps the whole show going.

She has a special touch for sorting fleeces. Fleeces with the longest staple fiber, shiny and lustrous are reserved for hand spinning (sold before they are even off the animals). The soft silky first shearing lamb fleece are for her very special Fog yarn. The prime ewe fleece, long and soft with a fine crimp are for Nash Island Light, a luscious worsted weight yarn. Soft bouncy fleece that’s “scoodgy” (a made up word because one was lacking) and crimped is for Tide, the dk weight yarn often used for colorwork. No island wool is wasted, anything that does not make the grade is used for felting fiber – reported to be the best out there.

As Jani calls out the grade, the fleeces fly on the skirting table where a small legion of fiber enthusiasts skirt them. Though the island lifestyle keeps the fleeces incredibly clean, there are still odd bits of brambles, seaweed and soiled areas that must be pulled out. The fleeces are carefully rolled up in vintage floral sheets, labeled and later put into huge burlap bags. Jani will hand skirt every fleece a second time when they get to her mill.

When the sun is directly overhead it’s time to break for an unbelievable potluck spread. Shearers eat first! After refueling and resting the shearing will continue. When finally finished and the sun approaches the waterline, the whole crowd will load the boats with fleece and gear and head for the mainland happy and satisfied with a job well done. The final task of the day is dropping the rams off on a different smaller island to spend the summer away from the girls, ensuring no lambs will be inconveniently born in winter – and a reason you find so many islands called Ram amongst Maine’s coastal islands.

On Nash, the ewes and lambs are relieved to be reunited and happy to have the island to themselves again.

Find Nash Island wool turned into knitting yarn at Starcroft Fiber Mill in Columbia Maine (starcroftfiber.com). Each fleece will be gently washed in bio-degradable soap. Once dry the fibers are hand-fed into the carding, drafting and spinning machines. The finished yarns are hand-dyed by Jani in small batches with colors inspired by the coastal beauty of Downeast Maine.

Essay by Mary Jane Mucklestone – first published in MAKING No.2/Fauna

 

 

Filed Under: Knitting, Travel Tagged With: Maine, Maine wool, Nash Island, Shearing, Sheep, wool

Kanoko Socks

April 12, 2017 by Mary Jane 2 Comments

KanokoSocks_Mucklestone

I’m pleased to introduce Kanoko Socks – inspired by the dots on the back of a fawn and an antique indigo kimono I wore for years. Kanoko means baby deer in Japanese and is aslo a shibori tie-dye technique.

KanokoSocks2_Mucklestone

You’ll find Kanoko Socks in the spring issue of Carrie Bostick Hogue’s magazine Making, available for pre-order now! Find out all about it here!

KanokoSocks3_Mucklestone

I kept it local using Amy King’s (aka Spunky Eclectic) Skinny Sock yarn. I love the subtle variation in the deep rich evening sky blue – called Deep Night. Hi Ho Silver makes the perfect dots. You’ll need 270 yards (247 meters) of the Main Color and 45 yards (42 meters) of Contrast Color in fingering weight yarn.

DSC_5534

Simple colorwork and oh so fun to knit!

 

Additional details on Ravelry:

Kanoko Socks

All photos: @maddermade

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Filed Under: Knitting

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