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Mary Jane Mucklestone

Hand Knitting Blog & Knitting Patterns

Knitting

The Fair Isle Vest: Stranded and Steeked

July 19, 2012 by Mary Jane 4 Comments

I have been a busy bee. At last you can see one of the things I’ve been up to – designing a vest for, and filming a Craftsy.com class! Exciting and terrifying all at the same time. Here’s the press release in my own words:

With its striking color combinations and elaborate motifs, Fair Isle knitting can seem overwhelming. Join me, Mary Jane Mucklestone, for my new online Craftsy class, The Fair Isle Vest: Stranded and Steeked, and learn the techniques that take this dazzling form of stranded colorwork from daunting to doable.

We’ll start with the fascinating history of Fair Isle knitting, how it differs from other forms of stranded colorwork, and why traditional Fair Isle knitting is the perfect introduction for learning any form of stranded knitting. We’ll learn the special properties of Shetland wool and why it is well suited for stranded knitting. We’ll delve into color theory and learn tips for assessing colors and color values. Next we’ll discuss essential techniques like reading a stranded knitting chart and I’ll show you three different ways of holding the yarn. We’ll learn the importance of making a test swatch both for gauge and for color. From here, we’ll work through the knitting vest, learn how to change colors as we go along, identifying the pattern motif colors and the background colors. We’ll learn the importance of really looking at the work in your hands. Then, we’ll focus on armhole and neckline shaping and setting up the steek stitches for the openings. I’ll show you three ways to reinforce a steek and and then – we’ll cut it! And have fun doing it! Nothing to fear! The last lesson we will be picking up for knitting the neckband and armbands, weaving in ends, and learn the special importance of finishing in Fair Isle knitting. Voila! Before you know it you’ll be stranding like a master!

I taught myself Fair Isle knitting about 20 years ago, after being afraid for the longest time to even try it. One day, I took a deep breath and just started doing it. I had so much fun that I never stopped. I got so crazy about it I wrote a book! I know how nice it would have been to have someone show me the ropes, so I’m especially glad that I can be the one to show you. The more of us who enjoy it, the more fun for all!

My background is in art. I studied printmaking and textiles in college, and since then I’ve worked in both the fashion and hand knitting industries as a designer and stylist. Stranded colorwork allows me to get my color fix. I find inspiration everywhere: the colors of my morning grapefruit, a dense fog shrouding a field of grass, a thrifted potholder laced with bright rick rack, foreign films, art books, japanese magazines, and of course the work of other designers. Travel has also been an important source of inspiration and learning. Shetland and Peru are two of my favorite colorwork knitting destinations. I hope to make it to Iceland later this year and I have plans to visit more of South America.

Unlike the Shetland Islands, Craftsy classes are easily accessible. Once you enroll in a class, it’s yours for life, to watch at your own pace, as many times as you like. If you want to see a technique again, just rewind. If you want to make notes about a certain technique, you can, right there in your video. Craftsy classes are also interactive, so you can ask questions, and get answers from your classmates and from me. Plus, you can upload pictures of your projects to get feedback and insight, and browse your classmate’s projects to stimulate your creativity.

So check it out! Click the button below for a special discount price – 50% off – just for you my dear readers!

Filed Under: Knitting

Style it!

July 6, 2012 by Mary Jane 1 Comment

When I’m missing in action here on the blog, usually that is exactly what is happening…I’m in action…somewhere…and I can’t talk about what I’m doing for months! One of the hats I wear is as stylist for various magazines, individuals and in this case, a yarn company, Berroco. It really is a dream come true to work with one of the most talented knitwear designers alive, Norah Gaughan, creative director at Berroco, who I have admired since I first picked up a knitting magazine! Styling is a lot of work – challenging and fun all at the same time! We shoot up to 80 items over the course of 4 days. In March we shot the five Berroco booklets for Fall 2012, which are out now! I love working with groups of people, everyone bringing their own expertise to the project. The Berroco team is amazing and photographer Chris Vaccaro and his crew always get the shot. While things seem calm and serene in the images, this is what you get just out of shot.

 

Camera gear, racks of clothes, a table full of accessories…ordered chaos. Norah and I will spend the evening before selecting wardrobe for each piece we intend to shoot the following day. That means all garments and accessories. We group them together in the order we imagine we’ll shoot them. Next day when the models arrive, we’ll try things on as we go and alter our choices if need be. When we shoot on location like this, my job also requires me to be like the Girl With the Pearl Earring, I memorize the space before we go in so I can put things back just the way they were.

Watch out! When we do get a wee bit of down time…the camera might just turn on you. Here is the amazing Amanda Keep, Norah’s assistant and a designer in her own right (those are here darling mitts above) Norah Gaughan Designer Supreme and groovy-cool funny-fun Cheyeanne Timperio makeup artist; sitting down…a thrilling prospect after a long day!

Filed Under: Knitting Tagged With: Fall 2012, Norah Gaughan

Back in the Studio

June 27, 2012 by Mary Jane 13 Comments

I’m back from my secret western adventures and TNNA. I met so many great people in Columbus – saw lots of old friends, made wonderful new friends, but was there for such a short time I missed a whole slew people!

I won things! Yes! Marly Bird threw a party where we wore masks and got delicious food and PRIZES!!!! I got a prize for the biggest knitting brought along that night…I can’t show you what it is naturally, but I’ll let you know it was a big chunk of Fair Isle Knitting.

Craftsy.com threw a sensational cocktail party at Mouton, which we loved for the name as much as the atmosphere out in the wilds of the Short North. Best of all, a now naturally curly Gudrun was my roomie….did I mention Jeni’s ice cream?

Filed Under: Knitting

While I’m traveling….

June 22, 2012 by Mary Jane 4 Comments

I’ve been silent but busy! I hung out with these wooly friends before I left.  They are providing the fleece for a future project, and are anxious to tell you all about it but they are forbidden to.
Learn more their sheepy wonderfulness  here!

Filed Under: Knitting

Iceland in August!!!

May 24, 2012 by Mary Jane 3 Comments

That’s right! Iceland. Land of Ice and Snow. And the Midnight Sun!
With my wonderful friend Gudrun. And my new friend Ragga.
There are still one or two places open so have a look here.

Gudrun will be teaching Shetland Lace.

In this class we will explore the techniques and patterns that pertain to Shetland Lace knitting. We will practice knitting the more complex lace patterns where motifs are worked on both the RS and WS of the work.

We will also cover how to work a knitted on edging, grafting and a provisional cast on. An overview of typical Shetland shawl/stole constructions will be provided as well as some historical background.

A small sampler using Shetland lace-weight yarn willbe started during class.

I’ll be teaching a Fair Isle Workshop:

We’ll enjoy a full day workshop with Mary Jane:
Colorful Fair Isle Knitting – A cheery introduction to using color in two-color stranded knitting! Though it seems complicated, Fair Isle knitting is easier than it looks, even when it comes to choosing colors!

This class will introduce the basics of color theory as well as study color usasge in various stranded knitting traditions, including Icelandic! We will jump right in and begin to design our own personal colorways starting with a simple 4 stitch repeat and moving on to more complex patterns.

Along the way, we’ll explore various ways of holding the yarn to make your knitting comfortable to execute and your knitted projects even and smooth. Reading color and black and white charts will be covered as well as understanding yarn dominance, tips for weaving in ends, and the necessity of proper finishing.

Mary Jane believes exploring color in an informal classroom environment like this is the best situation; you will learn as much from your classmates work you will your own! As a bonus, Mary Jane will bring all 200 swatches from her book 200 Fair Isle Motifs: A Knitter’s Directory for you to see.

Participants will receive class handouts which include charts and a new fingerless glove pattern, developed just for our Icelandic adventure!

Ragga is teaching the traditional Lopapenysa yoked sweater of Iceland and Steeking:

The little Lopapeysa – Ragga’s class where you will learn to knit a tiny version of the Icelandic classic patterned yoke sweater, and by doing that you’ll get all the information you’ll need to complete a Lopapeysa of any size.

Steeking without fear – We’ll continue and steek our little lopi sweaters. No worries… you’ll learn Ragga’s tricks that will boost your confidence and eliminate your fear of steeking for good.

Check your calendar, we’d love to have you along for the fun.

We’ll be spending time in Reykjavik and the beautiful Westfjords.

Filed Under: Events, Knitting

What I Do

May 22, 2012 by Mary Jane 4 Comments

 

The last post got you started mixing and matching fair isle pattern motifs.
What next?

Here’s what I do. I swatch, circularly you see, for speed.

In this case I  didn’t have the yarn I would be using yet, but I needed to begin designing…deadline you know… So I went to my local yarn shop to pick up some yarn with the thickness that I was looking for, I wanted between 6 and 6.5 stitches per inch, and a good range of colors. Although I wanted a limited palette in the long run, I like to have enough colors to get some good ideas. I selected several colors of Rowan Felted Tweed. It’s a soft fluffy tweedy merino/alpaca/viscose blend, only vaguely similar to what I’ll be using, but very close in thickness. It is very pretty, has a good range of colors and values, and it’s fun to knit with.

I started with a ribbed edge, to see how long I might want it for the super secret item I am designing. Becoming bored, but with a general idea of my ribbing, I moved on to patterns. I knit up a bunch, centering the motifs as outlined in the last post. Usually I won’t rip out except when I don’t have much yarn, which was true in this case, so I ripped a few motifs out that I was sure I didn’t like, once for color placement and another time for a stodgy motif, too heavy and bulky looking for the intended use. When I was basically happy with things, I photocopied the swatch several times – first in Black & White to save ink– and then started cutting them up. Next I re-arranged the components  until I came up with something that I liked and would suit the criteria I had outlined for my project.

  • No more than 9 colors
  • Will easily translate to 2 colors
  • Repeat is suitable for many sizes
  • Begins with an easy peerie pattern
  • Includes traditional OXO motif
  • Simple enough for beginners
  • Varied enough to appeal to experts
  • Lots of room for individual variation

You’ll have to stay tuned in the coming months for the end result.

Very exciting coming attractions!

Filed Under: Knitting

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